AHHH 25 euros, an hour bus ride, and a shot of cafe con leche later, I find myself on aisle 10 in the plaza de torros getting ready to watch my first (and only) bull fight. I can't even describe how I felt as I sat on the stands watching the imminent death of an innocent bull. It was gut-wrenching, heart-breaking, tear-jerking feeling, all at the same time. I was on the edge of my seat the entire time and I tried not to look, but it's one of those things where you just have to (kind of like killing a spider and having to check to make sure it's dead). I stayed until half way and made sure I left before the 3rd bull (there are 6, I KNOW, SIX)....I seriously had post-traumatic stress disorder for about an hour after. I've never seen such a gruesome thing LIVE especially since the first matador sucked and absolutely did NOT give the bull a clean death...yea
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he looks so sad :( |
So I leave the plaza and meet up with a couple of other friends at the fair (they left after the first bull). I was seriously shaking, just traumatized, but after a couple chocolate churros and some liquid comfort, I finally calmed down. What an experience. For the longest time, I couldn't understand how this was part of Spain's culture. This, inhumanity. Surprised, even that there wasn't a group of PETA activists (Persons for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) protesting outside the plaza. Disgusted, with myself for paying to see this. I tried to see what the Spanish saw in this. I tried to see the "culture" in this, but for the life of me, I couldn't. It wasn't until talking to my roommate that made me realize that it isn't the killing of the bull that the Spanish feed off of, it's the art. I know what you're thinking, this is art? As much as it breaks my heart (and you know it does), yes, it is. The swiftness in which the matador waves the red muleta. The way he reads the bull's every move. The way he establishes authority over the bull. The cleanliness of every shot, not to mention the athleticism to outrun an angry 2000+lb bull.
Though the first matador was crap, the 2nd really displayed his art. There was a moment when everyone in the plaza stood up, cheered and started waving white handkerchiefs. At first I was shocked, how can people be so inhumane, cheering for death (it reminded me of gladiators back then). Then I realized that they were cheering for the quick, clean, immediate death in which both art and skill were involved (ok, not much better right? I would like to believe they were cheering for less suffering and a respectable death) But, adopting a new perspective really helped me understand the culture in bull fighting. I don't have to agree with it, but I can accept it. This is something that's been alive for hundreds of years. It brings people from all over the country, both young and old, together, in one stadium. It's a place where people keep these old traditions alive.
So that was my little blurb of the bull fight. Some other things that happened this week. Went to explore Medina Alcazar with Janice. Its this beautiful fort/garden of a Christian king.
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sitting on top of a castle, seriously almost fell |
And took a tour of the Mezquita. The (I want to say) 3rd biggest mosque (because Cordoba had a lot of Arab/muslim influence). Inside the mosque, ironically, is a Christian chapel (built a few centuries after). It's so cool because most of the mosque is dark and almost eerie, but the church was the only source of light (because it had so many windows). Symbolism, yea? It really is a beautiful sight, and it's so awesome to be living right next to it.
Oh I almost forgot! There's this place called Santo's with the best tortilla española (its like this potato and egg tortilla) and it's right next to the Mezquita!
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sitting by the Mezquita with our tortillas |
I wish I could write more about the history of every single place I visit, of every site that I see, but it's just too overwhelming. It's almost like information overload. I'm trying to just soak it all in right now and learn as much as I possibly can. What I value most is the history and the story behind every building, column, church, monument, painting, sculpture, song, dance, etc. Because without history, those things are merely objects, inanimate and lifeless. Knowing the history of it all breathes life and existence into these things, into this city. That's why I love being here, there has been so much history, so much life. (Oh, and Spanish history, without a doubt is my fav class!).
The more I'm here, the more my purpose is revealed. The more I understand the language, the more I understand the culture and the people. And the more I eat, the fatter I get.
By the way, the hardest part is choosing which pictures to show you guys, so here's my shutterfly!
http://photosdespana.shutterfly.com/
Until then my friends! Besos!